Café Jelinek

Tucked just off Mariahilfer Strasse, heated by a wrought-iron wood burner, with piles of home-made cake and no wifi to distract anyone from the newspapers. The room is dark, worn and deliberately unrestored, the counter-argument to the museum-piece cafés in the first district. Regulars from the neighbourhood, an unhurried pace, and a melange around €5.30.

Coordinates: 48.1951835, 16.3493987

Part of Vienna's historic coffeehouses, the Kaffeehaus institutions

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