Ballarò

The oldest of Palermo's market runs, and the one where the meusari — the spleen-sandwich men — still work their own pitches rather than a shopfront. Stigghiola grills run in the open along the route, lamb intestine wound onto spring onion and turned over charcoal until it blackens. The market splits its day, closing through the early afternoon and reopening until evening.

Coordinates: 38.1113556, 13.3615778

Part of Palermo counters that cook only offal — spleen, intestine, tripe, frittola

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